Zagora and the Draa Valley

The Draa is Morocco's longest river, about 1,100 kilometers (680 miles) from the High Atlas to the Atlantic. It forms where the Dadès and Imini rivers meet near Ouarzazate. South of there it runs through a valley about 200 kilometers long with six oases in a row: a ribbon of date palms, fields and mud-brick villages between bare mountains. Zagora sits about halfway and is the largest town.

If you want to see the desert, you usually go to Merzouga. The Draa Valley is the other route south: shorter from Marrakesh and green along the way.

The road through the valley

From Ouarzazate the road climbs over the Tizi n'Tinififft, a pass of about 1,660 meters (5,450 feet) through the Saghro mountains. Then you descend to Agdz, about 70 kilometers south of Ouarzazate. Above the palm grove of Agdz rises Jebel Kissane, a mountain with a flat top.

A few kilometers from Agdz is the ksar of Tamnougalt, a fortified mud-brick village with a kasbah, on a side road off the main highway. From Agdz it is about 90 more kilometers to Zagora, past palm groves and villages along the river. Dates and pomegranates grow here.

Zagora

Zagora is the capital of the province of the same name and has a little over 40,000 people. On the edge of town is the well-known sign "Tombouctou 52 jours": 52 days by camel to Timbuktu, in Mali. Above the town rises Zagora mountain, with the remains of a fortress from the Almoravid era.

On Sundays there is a market in the center. The town itself is a place to sleep before you head south or back up the river.

Tamegroute

About 20 kilometers south of Zagora is Tamegroute. The village has been a religious center for centuries. Its zawiya has a library of old books and manuscripts on subjects such as the Quran, medicine, astronomy and mathematics. Ahmed ibn Nasir laid its foundation with books he brought back from his pilgrimages to Mecca.

Tamegroute is also known for its glazed pottery. In the workshops you can see bowls and pots being made and fired. The market is on Saturdays.

M'Hamid and Erg Chigaga

Farther south is M'Hamid El Ghizlane, about two hours' drive from Zagora. That is where the paved road ends. About 56 kilometers southwest of M'Hamid lies Erg Chigaga, the largest dune field in Morocco, with dunes over 50 meters high. You can only get there by 4x4 along the track, or by camel.

Erg Chigaga is farther from the road than Erg Chebbi near Merzouga: the last stretch is unpaved and the trip takes longer. To decide which suits you, read the page on the Sahara and Merzouga.

As a woman in the Draa Valley

The valley is rural and people dress conservatively. Cover your shoulders and knees, especially in the villages and in Tamegroute. A scarf is handy against the sun and blowing sand. Only photograph people if they say yes.

It is hot and dry: Zagora gets about 61 millimeters (2.4 inches) of rain a year. Keep plenty of water in the car and bring sunscreen and a hat. The rest of what to bring is on the packing list.

Travel time and best months

From Marrakesh to Zagora is about 350 kilometers (220 miles), around seven hours over the Tizi n'Tichka pass and through Ouarzazate. With stops that makes a long day. Spend a night in Ouarzazate, Agdz or Zagora, especially if you are going on to Erg Chigaga.

Go between October and April. In January, Zagora sees around 20°C (68°F) during the day and around 4°C (39°F) at night. In July the average daytime high is around 45°C (113°F). The weather in the rest of the country is in the guide on the best time to visit.

Through the Draa Valley with Soukayna

Zagora is not one of the fixed trips on this site. On a tailor-made trip, Soukayna drives you over the Atlas and through the Draa Valley to Zagora, with stops in Agdz, Tamnougalt and Tamegroute. If you want to go to Erg Chigaga, you cover the last stretch from M'Hamid by 4x4. We include that in the proposal. You can also combine the valley with Aït Benhaddou and Ouarzazate on the way down.