Atlas Mountains

An hour and a half after leaving the medina of Marrakesh you are in the mountains. The road climbs, the olive trees give way to walnut and apple trees, and on the slopes lie villages of red earth that you only notice once you are close. This is the High Atlas, the land of the Amazigh (Berbers), with Toubkal as its highest peak. There is no single big sight; the appeal is in the quiet and in the people.

Walking, villages and tea

Imlil is the mountain village at 1,740 meters where most hikes start. From here you walk a loop of two to three hours past the villages of Aroumd and Tamatert, on paths between terraced fields, along irrigation channels and under walnut trees. You don't have to be athletic. Sturdy shoes and an easy pace are enough. If you like, you can walk up to the first snow or take a longer hike to a mountain pass.

The Ourika Valley is lower and greener. The river runs past restaurants where you eat with your feet in the water. At the end of the road, at Setti Fatma, a half-hour climb takes you to the first of seven waterfalls. On Fridays and weekends Ourika is busy with families from Marrakesh; on weekdays it is quiet.

Along the way you pass women's cooperatives where argan oil is made or carpets are woven. The women show you how the work is done, and the proceeds go to them. You don't have to buy anything. The argan oil here is the real thing, though, which is far from always true of the oil in the souk.

At some point in the day you are invited into a family home, or you stop at a house where Soukayna knows the people. You get mint tea, fresh bread, olive oil and honey. It is often the part of the day that stays with you.

Farther away, two and a half hours by car from Marrakesh in the Middle Atlas, are the Ouzoud waterfalls. They are 110 meters high, with macaques in the trees and small boats under the falls. It is a long day, but worth it in spring.

As a woman in the mountain villages

The mountain villages are more conservative than Marrakesh, and still you walk around more relaxed. Nobody calls out to you and nobody wants to sell you anything. Women work in the fields and greet you. Children ask for a pen or a piece of candy, which you can kindly refuse. Cover your shoulders and knees in the villages; it is appreciated and it protects you from the sun. Long pants and a T-shirt with a scarf are fine. More on that in what to wear.

On the hiking trails you are with your guide and possibly a mule. Women traveling alone hike here without any problems. Toilets along the way are basic, so bring tissues.

Travel time, season and what to bring

Ourika is about an hour's drive from Marrakesh, Imlil about an hour and a half. The road to Imlil is paved and easy to drive. One day is enough for a hike and lunch. Take two days with an overnight stay if you really want to hike or simply want to rest.

April through June and September through November are the best months. In summer it is a relief up here after the heat of the city. In winter there is snow above 2,000 meters and the high trails are closed, but that is exactly when the villages are at their prettiest.

Bring sturdy shoes, sunscreen, a cap or scarf, an extra layer and water. The rest is on the packing list.

The day tour with Soukayna

On the day tour to the Atlas Mountains and Berber villages Soukayna drives you into the mountains in the morning, a local mountain guide walks with you through the villages, and you eat with a family. You set the pace: a short walk and a long lunch, or the other way around. If you prefer Ourika to Imlil, that is possible. With small children or a bad knee, Ourika is easier.

The Atlas is also the route to the south. Anyone traveling to Aït Benhaddou and Ouarzazate or the Sahara crosses the range over the Tizi n'Tichka pass at 2,260 meters. If you combine that with a night in the mountains, you don't have to cross the pass there and back in one day.