A Sahara desert trip as a woman: how it works

The dunes of Erg Chebbi near Merzouga are up to 150 meters high, and after sunset it gets very quiet there. Before you book a night in the Sahara, you want to know a few practical things: how long are you in the car, where do you sleep, what about toilets and how cold does it get?

The route in three days

Merzouga is about 9 to 10 hours by car from Marrakesh. You don't drive that in one day, and there is no reason to. The road crosses a mountain pass and runs past kasbahs and gorges that are worth a stop.

Day 1: Marrakesh to the Dadès valley

You leave early and climb over the Tizi n'Tichka, a mountain pass at 2260 meters. The road is good but winding. If you get carsick easily, sit in the front and eat light. On the other side of the pass is Aït Benhaddou, the mud-brick village you know from films and series. You walk through the kasbah and have lunch with a view. By way of Ouarzazate and the Valley of the Roses you drive to the Dadès gorge, where you sleep in a small kasbah or a hotel by the river.

Day 2: Todra and the dunes

After breakfast you visit the Todra gorge, a cleft with walls three hundred meters high. After that the landscape gets flatter and drier. You drive past palm groves and villages until the first sand dunes appear on the horizon. Late in the afternoon you get on a camel (or into a 4x4, if you would rather not ride) and head an hour into the dunes to the camp. You watch the sun go down from the top of a dune and eat in the camp. Afterward there are drums by the fire, under a sky full of stars.

Day 3: sunrise and back

If you want to, you get up early for the sunrise. After breakfast you ride back to the road. From there you can return to Marrakesh in one long day, or drive on to Fes and continue your trip there. With that second option, your desert trip becomes the start of a longer tour. See the imperial cities tour.

The weather: heat and cold in one trip

The temperature swings in the desert are large. From November to February the days are pleasant, but at night it can drop to around freezing. The camps have thick blankets. Bring a thermal shirt and a warm hat anyway. In summer, from June to September, the days get very hot and the dunes are only comfortable early and late. The best months are March, April, October and November. Read more under the best time to visit.

Toilets and washing

• On the road you stop at roadside restaurants and gas stations. The quality of the toilets varies. Bring tissues and hand sanitizer, and expect a squat toilet now and then.
• Standard camps in the dunes have shared toilets and often a simple shower.
• More luxurious camps have a private bathroom with a toilet and shower right at your tent, plus a real bed.

Tell us which kind of camp you want when you send your request. The price difference between a standard camp and a luxury camp is considerable, but a private bathroom can be worth it, especially during your period.

What to pack

You only take a small bag to the camp. The rest of your luggage stays in the car. This goes in:

• Layers: a thermal shirt, a fleece or wool sweater and, in winter, a windproof jacket.
• A large scarf against sun, sand and cold. In the camp you learn to tie it as a turban.
• A headlamp or flashlight, because the camp is dark after dinner.
• Wet wipes, hand sanitizer, tissues and a small toiletry bag.
• A power bank, because not every camp has outlets.
• Sunglasses, sunscreen and a bottle of water.
• Closed shoes for the walk and flip-flops for around the camp.

The full list is in our packing list for Morocco.

Alone or with a group

Many desert trips are sold as group tours in a minibus. That is cheaper, but you are with twelve strangers on a fixed schedule. With Soukayna you travel privately. You decide the pace, where you stop and how long you stay at a viewpoint. She drives herself and knows the route and the places where the lunch is good and the toilet is clean. If you go alone, there is someone you know with you the whole way.

In the camp you are never the only guest, because camps host several travelers each night. That makes for good company around the fire, and it feels safer too. If you are nervous about sleeping alone in a tent, choose a luxury camp with tents that lock.

The camel

The ride to the camp takes about an hour. It sways, and after half an hour most people feel it in their thighs. Wear long pants and leave your bag in the car. Hold on tight to the saddle when the animal stands up, because it does so with a jolt. If you would rather not ride, most camps can take you by 4x4. Tell us in advance and we will arrange it.

Photos and tips

Photograph the dunes as much as you like. Do ask permission before you photograph people, including the camel handlers. A small tip for the men who lead the animals is customary. Count on a few dozen dirham per person.

The day-by-day route is on our Sahara desert trip to Merzouga page.